Fishing, How To, Lifestyle

How to Fish: What You’ll Need & Things to Know

While at times it can feel like people have moved far away from their hunting, fishing and gathering roots, a simple drive past any river or lake will correct this assumption! Fishing continues to be a time-honored rite of passage for the young and a treasured hobby that inter-generational family members enjoy together.

According to the American Sportfishing Association (ASA), fishing is also a vital industry, representing an estimated 800,000+ jobs just to support fishing hobbyists and pros with equipment, supplies, training, licensure, lodging and more.

If you are just now joining in on this popular activity, you may legitimately be wondering where to start! There are so many different types of fishing. Equipment choices span the gamut and seem to require learning a whole new vocabulary just to choose a rod, reel and some tackle and bait. Where should you start and what should you do first? Read on for a step-by-step guide to fishing basics.

Decide What Fish You Want to Catch

From mega-fishing to micro-fishing, freshwater to saltwater, species-specific fishing to catch-all fishing, on-shore versus water craft-aided fishing, as Take Me Fishing illuminates, it is clear the first thing to do is to decide what you want to see dangling on the end of your hook.

For instance, if you are keen to enter the emerging sport of micro-fishing, which focuses on catching small species-specific fish in a similar manner to how birders scan the skies for different species of birds, you will need small gear….very small. NPR explains howsmall lures, small hooks, small bait…if it isn’t small enough, your tiny prey won’t be able to grab on.

Assemble Your Basic Fishing Gear

Once you know what type of fish you aim to catch, this list from Boy’s Life describes the general supplies you will need to acquire:

  • Fishing rod.
  • Spinning or casting reel.
  • Fishing line.
  • Hooks.
  • Bobbers.
  • Sinkers.
  • Needle-nose pliers (to extract hooks).
  • Clippers (to cut the fishing line).
  • Bait lures (artificial or real or both).
  • Tackle box (to store your small items).
  • Fishing license.

You may not need the last item depending on where you plan to fish, but it can be a big mistake not to check in advance of a trip only to arrive and discover you can’t fish without one.

Steps to Getting Started Fishing

Assembling all the gear you need to fish can be exciting. It can also feel daunting, like – are you sure you need ALL this gear just to catch a fish? It won’t be until your first actual fishing trip that you really see how essential each item in your toolkit becomes.

Of course, at the most basic level, there is always the tried-and-true “tie some fishing line on the end of a pole” technique. But unless you have access to a local pond or stream where fish are known to gather, this method is unlikely to net you much of a catch.

For some serious fishing how-to, what you need to know is the basic steps in any successful catch. Most beginning fishing enthusiasts start with on-shore fishing. Here, you can focus on learning to cast your fishing line, choosing the right hooks/lures/bait for the fish, reeling in your catch and detaching the fish from the hook.

Here is a list of the basic, general steps to take:

Step 1: Attach a hook to the end of your fishing line and knot it securely.

Step 2: Choose a lure or a live bait (or you can use a combination).

Step 3: Cast your hook and line into the water.

Step 4: Wait very quietly for a bite.

Step 5: When you feel a bite, pull gently on the line to ensure the fish is securely caught.

Step 6: Begin bringing in or reeling in your catch.

Step 7: Gently but firmly grasp the fish, being careful to avoid any sharp spines or (rarely) teeth.

Step 8: Detach the fish from the hook.

So there you have it! These are the basic steps to catch your first fish!

When you are just starting out and practicing these basic techniques, it can be a good choice to enjoy “catch and release” fishing, where you catch the fish and then throw it back so it can continue to grow, breed and multiple its species.

You will want to do this anyway with any fish that is smaller than the legal catch size for your state. Barb-less hooks are the best hooks for catch and release fishing.

Going Beyond Fishing Basics

Of course, beginning and professional fishing enthusiasts alike wish fishing was really that easy. There is so much to learn, the volume of which can take a lifetime. But that is also why fishing is such an alluring sport.

Not only do you get a delicious fish reward when you learn to do everything properly, but since each species of fish requires different fishing tactics to turn a lucky break into a sure catch, when you master one type of fishing, there are still so many other types of fishing to learn!

Once you feel competent and confident practicing the simple fishing basics listed in the previous section, you can advance to an intermediate level. Here, you learn about different types of hooks, which fish likes which types of bait best, the different times of day and seasons when fish are biting and how to fish from a craft as well as from shore.

Fishing hooks.

Hooks come in all shapes and sizes with many different hook types. In general, smaller, lighter hooks are best for small, lightweight fish. The larger and stronger the fish, the more durable the hook should be.

As well, some point types are better for fish with different mouth shapes. And some hooks are designed to work with multiple baits or lures, bobbers or sinkers.

Baits and lures.

The type of bait you use to lure in a small freshwater sunfish is necessarily going to look radically different from the type of bait you use to net a giant deep sea tuna.

Seasonal and time-of-day fishing tactics.

As Field and Stream explains, no tactic is truly off-limit to catch a fish, even in the off-season or at non-optimal times of day or night. Dancing a jig in the mud, submerging yourself in waist-high water, tying big weights onto your line….these are all time-honored strategies to catch different species of fish in pretty much any type of weather or season.

Fishing is not an easy-in-easy-out sport. Rather, it creeps up on you, slowly becoming a passion you can pass along to future generations in turn.

Faming Help, Growing Vegetables, How To

How to Grow Corn

Corn plants will most certainly grow in most types of soils, but to nurture the plant till it produces cobs or ears is not a simple task. You need to be aware of what it takes from the time you plant seeds to the time the cobs are ripe for harvesting. The plant is a heavy feeder, and for the cobs to mature, the plant must accumulate enough heat or heat units for the time when it is growing. Its daily length or its size does not determine the quality of yield.

When the chilling spring frost is over, corn need temperatures that exceed 50 F. This amount of heat is suitable for the heat units to be created. And since corn grow taller than most garden plants; they shade other crops such as vegetables. There are many varieties of the crop that do well in different parts of the world. Before you sow the seeds, find out from your local agricultural officer which is the best type of corn for you particular area.

Land Preparation

Like most other crops, the first step to corn growing is land preparation. The crop requires a lot of space so ensure that you have enough space for the corn. Plough the land thoroughly to ensure that weeds are removed.  In some parts of the world, corn is grown all year round so long as there is enough precipitation, but in other regions, it is important to know the planting season. Late April to early June is the ideal time for planting the crop.

Planting Corn

Since corn is quite vulnerable to extremely cold conditions or frost, make sure there is no danger of frost when you plant the seeds. Plant the seeds after the soil has reasonably warmed up. The seeds need about 60 degrees to germinate. You must not attempt to transplant corn because they often die when they are transplanted. It takes seven to ten days for the seeds to germinate.

Your garden might be in an area of short seasons, and you could want to plant them indoors. In this case, you should use biodegradable containers so the plant’s roots will not be disturbed during the time of transplanting. To speed up the process of warming the soil when the cold weather persists, you can spread black plastic sheets to warm the soil in the planting area.

The patch for corn planting should be sited on a wind-protected and sunny area. To get the best yields, plant you seeds in a piece of land where you previously grew clover, hairy vetch or beans which enrich the soil. Corn is a heavy-feeding plant particularly on nitrogen.

Seeds should be sown just 1 inch deep during early planting, but when the hot midsummer weather has set in, you can plant them up to 2 inches deep. Seeds can be planted at intervals of seven to fifteen inches because the average rate of germination for corn is almost 75 percent. Depending on the variety of corn, plant one to three seeds in one hole. If they are more than that, thin them after they grow above the soil level. Take care not to disturb the remaining plants when you remove the unwanted seedlings.

Weed Removal

Apart from being a heavy-feeder, the crop is susceptible to the presence of weeds. Use the most efficient method of weed control to remove all weeds around the corn-stalk because the crop cannot compete well with weeds. You should do this when the corn is about 3 inches during the first month of their growth. When weeding, take enough care not to disturb the plant’s roots. When they are growing, the shallow roots can spread out almost a half a foot from the stalk. To protect the roots from damage, you can add mulch to stop the weeds from growing.

You should plant corn in circles or in blocks to encourage cross-pollination between the plants.  And when corn is growing add manure or compost beneath each seed farrow. In the row, they should be 8-10 inches apart, but the double eared or large varieties should be planted at least 24 inches apart. Ensure that the corn is weed-free until they are above knee height.

Top Dressing with Nutrients

Compost fertilizers, fish-based organic nutrients and blood meal are ideal for side dressing the corn crop when the stalks are about 6 inches. The process should be repeated when the crop is about knee-high. Cutting any side growths or suckers might damage the roots of corn, so do not attempt to pluck them off because they cause no harm to the corn.

When the stalks start tasseling, the corn will require about an inch of water weekly. To avoid getting corn ears with a lot of missing kennels, ensure that the crop gets sufficient water. You can apply the water to the soil using drip irrigation of a hose for soaking, but when the rains are enough, you shouldn’t worry.

Maturity and Harvesting

Different types of corn crops mature at different time intervals, however, majority take 2-3 months to ripen. The days to maturity are often listed for each variety on the seed packet. The best way to know whether the corn is ripe is to check for the silks at the top of the ear. When they turn brown and dry as the corn begins to droop then the ears are ready. When cut, the kernels also produce a milky fluid or juice. Harvesting should commence once the husks of the plants have turned dry and yellow brown in late summer or early fall.

Faming Help, Growing Vegetables, How To

How to Grow Potatoes

Potatoes can come in a variety of different sizes, shapes, and colors. However, when you grow your own, you can be satisfied knowing you’re paying virtually nothing for a large crop of tasteful, nutritional spuds. Below, is a guide to growing your own potatoes without needing to shop for the usual five-pound sack each week at your local grocers.

1. Purchase the Seeds

Potatoes are created from seed potatoes, which are potatoes that have buds sprouting on them. However, make sure that you only use certified seed potatoes from your grocer’s, since others can contain bacteria and diseases that can raise a bad crop. You can also order seed potatoes from your local garden center as well. The variety of potatoes you can grow includes the Irish Cobbler, French Fingerling, All Blue, and Kennebec and Katahdin.

2. Prepare for Planting

One week prior to planting, put your seed potatoes in a hot spot that averages between 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Once the sprouts start growing growing on the potatoes, you’re ready to start planting. At least three days prior to planting, cut up your seed potatoes into two-inch pieces, with each slice containing at least two buds. Once you cut them up, you let them sit in an area at room temperature for up to three days.

3. Prepare Your Garden

To grow a good crop, your potatoes need to be planted in loose, healthy soil with plenty of sunlight. Using a gardening rake, you should regularly keep the soil loose, while adding in fertilizer.

4. Plant Your Potatoes

When choosing a place to plant your potatoes, make sure that the area can be easily drained and has enough rooms for the roots to grow.

Trench Method

The trench method is the most traditional method and involves creating a small trench, at least six inches deep, to plant your seed potatoes in. Then, simply cover your potatoes in a few inches of soil, and continuously add in the soil as your crop grows.

Scatter Method

This method just requires you to put your seed potatoes on the soil and cover them up with a couple inches of fresh mulch. Then, you only need to add in a few more inches of mulch as your crop grows. However, if you have a constant rodent problem, you should avoid this method.

Container Method

The container method is among the easiest and takes up much less space than the other methods. All you have to do is plant your seed potatoes at the bottom of a tall container, such as a trash barrel. First, place 6 inches of soil at the bottom, then insert your seed potatoes. However, you should make sure to continuously add in soil as your potatoes grow taller.

5. Maintain Your Potatoes

Since potatoes don’t thrive well in rich soil, you should have plenty of organic material in your soil. As long as the pH is neutral, your potatoes should grow healthy. However, your crop does depend on a consistent water supply, make sure you water them up to an inch per week.

6. Hill Your Potatoes

Five weeks post planting your potatoes, they should be hilled or have soil piles around their stems. This way, your new potatoes can grow above your planted seed potatoes. When you hill your potatoes, it’s okay to cover your entire crop or even leave a couple leaves exposed from the soil. However, you should hill frequently to avoid new tubers being directly exposed to the sun.

7. Harvest Your Potatoes

Potatoes are ready for harvest in roughly 70 to 100 days after planting your seed potatoes. A large hint that your potatoes are ready for harvest is their yellow leaves and reduced foliage. However, you should leave them in their soil for up to an additional three weeks to harden their skin. While harvesting, you should use a garden rake and hands to dig them up from the ground.

8. Eat/Store Your Potatoes

Once your potatoes are harvested, they should be immediately washed off prior to eating. However, if you plan to store them, you should find a dry spot to cure them for two weeks. Once cured, sort through which potatoes are healthy and which ones are too shriveled or soft. The healthy potatoes should be placed in a secure, cool spot where they can sit for a few months.

Pest and Disease Warning

When planting your potatoes, watch out for these pests and diseases.


Aphids and beetles can easily defoliate your crop. You should be regularly monitoring your potatoes early on in the season to make sure this doesn’t become a problem. To do this, check the sides of your potatoes for any eggs or larvae of pests that can ultimately ruin your crop. Make sure you remove these pests by hand and attach red wire worms around your potato crop to avoid wire worms.


If you notice corky areas or sunken holes on the skin of your potatoes, they may be suffering from scab, which is caused by low pH in the soil. However, you can avoid this by adding peat moss to your garden or raising the pH of the soil.